For autumn/winter 21, Per Götesson explores the fragility of masculinity with a focused series of demi-couture pieces that cut together previously existing garments. Bombers take on new volume; Air Force linings become an elegant coat; jeans and army trousers play around the legs. Seashell jewellery adds another layer of memory and reflection, made by Götesson’s partner, Husam el Odeh, who also made the metal labels attached to each piece that confirm each garment is one of one.

“I wanted to create a hands-on collection of demi-couture pieces, exploring the memory and meaning that’s in pre-existing clothes. Each piece is unique, merging together garments and revealing the fragility within masculine shapes,” says Per Götesson

This is a collection based around collage, whether bringing together different versions of the same garment, or merging pieces that would usually layer over each other, like a coat and tailored jacket. Often, Götesson worked with silhouettes from previous seasons, as if those earlier iterations were toiles for this collection.

Throughout, Götesson plays with memory, whether it be the memories inherent in pre-worn garments, or his own memories of previous work. Vintage military garments bring their own haunting memory, heightening the sense of fragility within masculinity.

Two bomber jackets are merged together, the red panels at the front giving an illusion of sharpness, with a puffy sleeve like a cloud behind caused by a voluminous yoke. The silhouette refers to a jacket inspired by Van Eyck’s Arnolfini Portrait, which appeared in Götesson’s SS19 show.

Royal Air Force jacket linings are taken apart and merged to create a long, padded zip coat, the tags and labels of the linings on purposeful display. The sleek line of the jacket shape was first seen in Götesson’s SS21 collection.

Two long sleeve T-shirts have been created from vertical strips cut from band T-shirts. One of the T-shirts sews these strips together, the stepped hem guided by chance and the length of each strip. The other long-sleeve T lets the strips of band T-shirt hang free.

Double-pleat front tailored trousers are spliced with jeans, which twist together around the leg. The yoke at the back is from the tailored trouser, before the two combine and merge.

Army trousers, deadstock from the Swedish military, are cut and merged with denim jeans, the yoke at the back from the army trousers. The denim is ripped and torn, adding to the sense of fragility within masculinity.

An overcoat is merged into a tailored jacket, attached pattern piece by pattern piece, as if the two are enveloping in together, blending into one.

Also included is a cap trimmed with seashells by Husam el Odeh, combined with the ribbed collar of an overcoat. Knit bonnets and lace doily underwear bring further sensitivity.

El Odeh has created elegant flower jewellery for the collection, with petals from seashells and stems in silver. The inspiration came from Victorian seashell ornaments, and the pair’s recent lockdown obsession with documentaries on Queen Victoria – another layer of memory.

Words: Charlie Porter
Stylist and Creative Consultant: Gary Armstrong
Jewellery: Husam El Odeh for PER GOTESSON
Film Direction: Hydra Design
Music: Louis Carnell
Model: Louis Carnell
Show Invitation: Patrick Waugh
Studio and Design Assistant: Sam Jamieson
Studio Intern: Ross Coppin
Photography: PG Studio
PR: Agency Eleven

With thanks to The British Fashion Council, The New Gen Panel, Lulu Kennedy, Charlie Porter, Laura, Liz and Todd at Agency Eleven, Samuel Pearson at Hydra Design, our friends and family & Birkenstock.