For Autumn/Winter 23, Per Götesson delves into the traces and fragments of sartorial memories. Inspired by talismanic objects found in the British Museum, the collection explores the symbolism of transience, luck and protection. Traces of keys, scissors and necklaces are spraypainted across garments, replicating the superstitious power of everyday items. Coloured tank tops are given the illusion of necklaces, whilst drawcords jeans have keys etched below the waist, simulating masculine workwear ideals. The jewellery, designed by Götesson’s partner Husam El Odeh, further venerates these transient objects. Broken bottle pieces are encased in .925 silver to create pendants, and torn photos of masculine yogis are transformed into precious pins.

These memories and traces are intertwined with Götesson’s sustainable approach. Fragments of past garments, toiles and fabrics are repurposed into new designs. Offcuts are crafted into ‘PG’ logo jeans and leather overalls recycled into structured biker jackets. Old masculinities combine with the new through long coats with youthful varsity jacket trimmings and exaggerated shoulders. Leftover fabrics from previous collections are dyed and re-dyed to create contrasting long-sleeve tops and striped jeans, leaving the traces of colours from the studio’s archive.

The collection thus encapsulates Götesson’s process-led design. Memories of the studio are imbued into the clothes, epitomised by the continued collaboration with Kathy McGee of Digitoile. Digitoile’s technique captures a frozen point in time from the drapery process to generate a unique pattern. The garment, a double-layered technical bomber, immortalises a transient moment. Götesson’s collaboration with Callum Baylis extends the focus on temporal memory, with a denim-wool uniform set designed to age with the wearer.

Götesson’s signature alter-masculine aesthetic returns in this collection, with hoodies and t-shirts slashed to reveal traces of the unseen, exposing the soft and sensual archetype of the ‘PG’ man. The lookbook, shot in-house, exemplifies the studio’s workwear approach. Signature slashed looks are styled with denim skirt wraps and shearling chokers. Jeans are stripped of their waistbands and re-crafted with drawcords, dip-dyed, and adorned with upcycled leather patches. The breaking down and rebuilding of wardrobe staples exemplifies the cyclical process of the studio – a practice of renewal and redesign, generating difference and repetition.

In this collection, Götesson questions what we cherish and what we leave behind. Quotidian objects are given hidden meaning; a key representing the protection of the home, the veneration of broken glass and paper reminding us of everyday beauty in the discarded. Through sustainable workwear, collaborative garments and talismanic jewellery, traces of the studio’s past adorn the wearer and echo into the future.

Creative Direction: Per Götesson
Art Direction: Calum Knight
Operations and Range Planning: Callum Baylis
Styling: Nicole Walker
Words: Alfie Cherry
Photography: Luke Abby
Hair and Makeup: Takenaka
Jewellery – Husam El Odeh
Digitoile - Kathy McGee
Talent: Spencer, Levent, Callum
Shoes – Blundstone
PR: Agency Eleven
Sales Agent: Showroom Nu
Studio Team: Callum Baylis, Oleg Ratnikov, Euan Mcdonach, Yvonne Tang, Sun Ho Kim, Donghan Li, Louis Mayhew