Spring-Summer 22

This collection embraces inconclusive identities. Where Autumn-Winter 21 saw a new Per Götesson man emerge from a combination of heteronormative and queer values, this collection celebrates stylish, seismic shifts from a new reality. Spring-Summer 22 presents a confident ambiguity while acknowledging its reality—particularly identity and sexuality—is complex. Götesson visualising sexy, nerdy and Barbie boy archetypes informed by his queer perspective allows the collection to transcend stereotypes with sweeping gestures.

Per Götesson’s trademark rearranging and deconstruction techniques become an echo in repurposed details for SS22; refreshed with denim accents on gray jersey trousers as trompe l'oeil short details and drainpipe insets, respectively. Other lighthearted juxtapositions to change and rearrange masculine elements involved army fabrics, which line denim shorts and appear over denim trousers to double down on cheeky workwear, machismo commentary.

Per Götesson's inconclusive narrative is shown in a leather-effect foil print that attaches to a denim jacket. Playful, empowered ambiguity ruptures garments like the black suit jacket in linen. Black denim is doubled and topstitched onto the jacket to rearrange perceptions into something purposefully weird. New shapes from soft folding appear in wide tailored trousers in linen/acetate and denim variations. Linen, a Swedish export, represents an emotional connection for Götesson.

The twisted jersey-meets-nylon jacket in black and ecru is the latest result with frequent collaborator Kathy McGee of Digitoile. For this style, two jackets and a jersey t-shirt were sourced, draped on a fit model, then photographed 360°. The draped photos, after scanning, become the pattern which allows for a more organic process.

Doily explorations from SS21 are revisited with a lace knit ‘logo’ t-shirt using a rib technique. A shrunken collared dress—an army work shirt front with cotton watteau pleating on the back— draws inspiration from Kurt Cobain and housekeeper’s dress uniforms. These nonchalant acknowledgements express how life should not require grand pronouncements. It is simply expansive.

Alongside the SS22 collection, dueling identities are also deconstructed in accessories. Götesson’s partner, artist and accessories designer Husam El Odeh, layers various symbols together for SS22—Jesus Christ, World War I German soldiers, peace symbols and the thimble as a gendered perception—to accentuate the theme of making and rearranging.

Per Götesson SS22 suggests outward identifiers of ambiguous, playful masculinity be taken head on by his fans to outfit themselves in the new world, right now